Blanquette de veau au Louré – veal ragout with morels & tarragon
Pale veal, gently cooked until it falls apart in silky pieces, in a sauce that brings together Louré and crème — morels lend depth, a hint of tarragon lifts it all into the light. The white classic that carries the calm of a long, slow cooking onto the plate.
Put the veal cubes in a large pot, cover with cold water and bring to the boil once. Carefully skim off the rising foam, drain the meat and rinse it briefly in cold water — this keeps the sauce pale in the end.
Return the meat to the clean pot, cover with the veal stock and add the studded onion, carrot, leek, celery and the bouquet garni. Season with a little salt and a few peppercorns and, covered, let it barely simmer over low heat for 1.5 to 2 hours — the meat should simmer, not boil rapidly, until it gives way under gentle pressure from a fork.
Soak the dried morels for 20 minutes in lukewarm water, then squeeze them out and filter the soaking water through a cloth. Sweat the pearl onions and mushrooms in 1 tbsp butter with a pinch of sugar for 8 minutes until golden, add the morels and fry briefly with them.
From butter and flour, stir a pale roux over medium heat for 2 minutes, without letting it take on colour. Pour in the Louré and stir smooth, then gradually stir in about 600 ml of the hot cooking liquid and the filtered morel water. Let it simmer gently for 10 minutes, until the sauce binds silkily.
Whisk the crème fraîche and egg yolk, stir in a ladle of the hot sauce and return everything to the pot. Warm the sauce only just below boiling point — it must not boil again, or the egg yolk will curdle. Season with lemon juice, salt and white pepper.
Turn the meat and garnish in the sauce, fold in the chopped tarragon and let it steep for another 5 minutes. Serve with rice or steamed potatoes.
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