Calamars farcis – stuffed squid tubes in a tomato-herb broth
Plump squid tubes, stuffed with their own finely chopped seasoning, braise gently in a broth of tomato, garlic and herbs until tender and the kitchen smells of the south. A Provençal classic that rewards patience with silk.
Rinse the squid tubes inside and out in cold water and pat thoroughly dry. Separate the tentacles and chop them finely — they go into the filling. Keep the tubes chilled in the meantime.
Soak the breadcrumbs in the milk. Sweat the shallot and garlic in 2 tbsp olive oil over medium heat for 3 minutes until translucent, add the chopped tentacles and fry for a further 2 minutes. Take off the heat and mix with the lightly squeezed breadcrumbs, the anchovies, the parsley, the lemon zest and the beaten egg. Season with pepper and only a little salt — the anchovies add salt of their own.
Fill the tubes with a spoon or piping bag only two thirds full — they contract as they braise, and an over-stuffed tube will burst. Close each opening with a toothpick.
Heat the olive oil for the broth in a wide braising pot and sear the stuffed tubes all over for 2 minutes until they take on a little colour. Remove. In the same pot, sweat the onion and garlic for 5 minutes until soft, then add the tomatoes, orange peel, fennel seeds, thyme, bay and a pinch of sugar and bring briefly to the boil.
Bed the tubes back into the broth, season with salt and pepper and braise gently, covered, over low heat for 40 to 45 minutes. Squid turns tender only very briefly or long and slow — anything in between stays tough. Swirl the pot occasionally and add a splash of water if needed.
Take the pot off the heat and let the tubes rest in the broth for 10 minutes. Remove the toothpicks, cut the tubes diagonally into thick slices and arrange them in the broth. Scatter with parsley and serve with toasted country bread.
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