Kokotxas al pil-pil – fish cheeks in garlic oil
Preparation
Why this wine?
Good to know
Tips & insights
- Cook the kokotxas only in lukewarm, gently simmering olive oil, never fry them, so they keep their gelatinous tenderness.
- Take the garlic only to golden and remove it in time, otherwise the oil turns bitter.
- Let the oil cool a little before emulsifying and swirl the pan gently until the sauce binds creamy and pale.
- If the emulsion does not come together at first, a small sieve or whisk helps to work the gelatine into the oil.
- Season sparingly and only at the end; the delicate throat pieces need little.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which wine goes with kokotxas al pil-pil?
The Caprice. Its flinty, saline acidity cuts through the garlic oil and lets the tender, gelatinous texture of the kokotxas stand out clearly. If you want more richness, reach for the Louré, whose calm body carries the delicate emulsion without overshadowing the fineness of the throat pieces.
What exactly are kokotxas?
Kokotxas are the throat pieces of cod or hake, the tender flesh under the chin. They are rich in gelatine and thus the basis of the pil-pil emulsion. Fresh ones are rare; well-stocked fishmongers carry them frozen, which barely harms their fine texture.
How do I get the pil-pil emulsion right?
Cook the kokotxas gently in the oil and lift them out. Let the oil cool a little with the released gelatine, then swirl the pan in circles or stir with a sieve until oil and gelatine bind into a creamy, pale sauce.
What do I serve with it?
Kokotxas al pil-pil need little: toasted country bread to soak up the sauce is enough. If you want more, offer plain boiled potatoes or a small green salad. Keep the side restrained, so the fine emulsion and the tender throat pieces stay at the centre.
