Raie au beurre noisette, capers & parsley
Preparation
Why this wine?
Good to know
Tips & insights
- Poach the skate wing gently in a mild court-bouillon of water, vinegar and onion; do not let it boil.
- The cooked flesh lifts easily off the cartilage with a spoon.
- Brown the butter over medium heat until it smells nutty, then take it off the heat immediately.
- Add the capers and vinegar to the browned butter only at the end; this brings freshness and stops the browning.
- Use very fresh skate; a slight smell of ammonia shows that it is no longer fresh.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which wine goes with Raie au beurre noisette?
The nut-brown butter with capers and lemon calls for a full-bodied white with minerality whose freshness takes up the richness. We drink our Louré from LaSuite aux Conseillans with it, a Sauvignon Blanc from long ageing in oval clay amphorae with a small share of barrique. Its broad body carries the beurre noisette.
How do I recognise fresh skate?
Fresh skate smells cleanly of the sea and has firm, glossy flesh. A distinct smell of ammonia is a sign of ageing; such fish should not be used. A brief soak in water with a little vinegar softens a slight smell but is no substitute for real freshness.
How do I make beurre noisette correctly?
Let the butter melt over medium heat and keep simmering until the milk solids turn golden brown and the butter smells nutty. Then take it off the heat immediately, as it burns quickly. Capers and a splash of vinegar stop the browning and add freshness.
What goes well as a side with skate?
Steamed or jacket-boiled potatoes that take up the brown butter are classic. Toasted country bread also works well. A simple leaf salad adds freshness. Keep the side restrained so the delicate fish and the nutty butter set the tone.
